European sun care sales were hard hit the past two summers. Consumers were confined to their homes during lockdown due to Covid-19 restrictions. Only in spring 2022 did things start to improve, although a return to pre-pandemic levels is not anticipated until 2023. Despite these setbacks, sun care brands continue to innovate with exciting new developments in sustainable formulations and packaging as well as the emergence of products designed to tackle blue/invisible/infrared light, as well as the prospect of launches featuring probiotic claims.

Tracking back to the start of the pandemic, it is unsurprising that European sun care sales suffered a year-on-year double digit value decline, according to GlobalData. An embargo on travel abroad meant that Europeans were unable to take vacations, and sun care sales for home use fell far short of what can be expected in a normal year.

European sun care sales are finally recovering, according to GlobalData, with sales expected to rise 1.7% to $2.77 billion. Italy ($462 million), the UK ($430 million), France ($366 million), Germany ($291 million) and Spain ($277 million) are the largest sun care markets. By 2023, GlobalData predicts a return to growth of 5% for the UK, with Germany (3.2%) and Italy (3.1%) posting gains, too. The recovery is expected to take longer for France (-1.1%) and Spain (-0.9%).

Sustainable Alternatives

Europeans are aware of their impact on the environment and make more informed choices when purchasing sun care products. No wonder many new products make specific environmental claims. Euromonitor International noted 4,682 sun care launches in Western Europe claiming to be environmentally friendly, 1,364 made recycled claims, 1,006 made reef/ocean safe claims and 877 made recycled materials claims. Euromonitor Consultant Amy Rollison noted that overconsumption of plastic in the beauty industry is top of mind, with alternative packaging materials used by L’Oréal across its La Roche-Posay and Biotherm brands.

“The company collaborated with Albea to produce tubes made of bio-based and paper-like material, which entered the market in June 2020,” she explains.

Despite consumer demand for plastic alternatives, “squeezable plastic tubes” grew by the greatest number of units sold between 2020 and 2021: plastic is still an inexpensive and reliable option.

“Instead, brands can look to post-consumer recycled resin (PCR resin),” Rollinson suggests, citing REN Clean Skincare. Its packaging for Clean Screen Mineral SPF30 is made from 50% recycled plastic, while the cap is 100% recycled plastic. According to Euromonitor’s Product Claims and Positioning study, sun care recycled ingredient claims grew 32% last year in Western Europe.

Protecting the Oceans

Mineral sun protection formulations are increasing in popularity, as concerns around the impact of chemicals on the oceans increases. Rollinson points out that oxybenzone and octinoxate-containing products are banned in Hawaii and Thailand due to coral bleaching theories. As a result, Avene has reformulated to exclude these ingredients and UK retailer Holland and Barrett no longer sells sun care brands containing chemical sun protection.

“There are concerns around the impact of chemical sun creams on sensitive skin and suspected endocrine disruption due to some ingredients,” she adds.

Examples of reef/ocean safe sun care include Boep Sensitive Fragrance-free sun cream (Germany). It claims to have a natural mineral filter and calls itself coral friendly.

Juliet Cuell, associate analyst, GlobalData, comments, “It is also free from parabens, artificial fragrance, paraffins, mineral oil and silicone, and is suitable for vegans, thereby tapping into the desire for natural and environmentally friendly formulations.’”

All of Green People’s sun creams claim to be reef-safe, and contain natural ingredients such as green tea, rosemary and edelweiss.

Blue Light Exposure

“Blue light sun cream is becoming an attractive proposition to consumers who have increased their screen time during the pandemic,” states Cuell.

She cites new brand Gisele Denis Facial Sun Cream (Spain) with SPF30. It prevents the appearance of dark spots caused by exposure to sunlight, pollution and blue light. Meanwhile, retailer Cult Beauty has a blue light section for facial skin care and sun care on its website. Furthermore, awareness over the potential dangers of infrared is boosting sales of brands such as La Roche-Posay Anthelios Ultra Light Invisible Fluid SPF50, which offers UVA, UVB and infrared protection.

“It is likely to be in demand…now that consumers are… holidaying abroad once again,” states Cuell.

Probiotic Crossover

The health benefits of probiotics for the gut are well documented and consumers seek probiotic formulations across beauty and grooming products. According to GlobalData’s Q1 2022 consumer survey, 52% of European consumers find probiotics in beauty and grooming products somewhat or very appealing.

“While this claim is not mainstream in sun care, opportunity exists for brands to formulate products with probiotic ingredients and to communicate their benefits to consumers,” maintains Cuell.

Meanwhile, Euromonitor noted probiotic claims in sun care surged in Eastern Europe, growing 34% between 2020 and 2021.

The outlook for European sun care sales looks muted for 2022 as consumers remain cautious about taking holidays abroad. However, there are other factors likely to come into play, not least the impact of the war in Ukraine on fast-rising energy prices which is pushing inflation considerably higher than it has been for some years. Rollinson believes that consumers will seek stripped down, value for money routines as a result, leading to competition for sun care from skin care and color cosmetics.

“This will also provide an opportunity for sun care to ‘premiumize,’” she maintains. She cited hybrid sun care/priming products such as Supergoop! Glow Screen, or sun care with added skin care benefits, such as probiotics, antioxidants and hyaluronic acid.

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Imogen Matthews
Headington, Oxford UK
+44 1865 764918
www.imogenmatthews.co.uk
 
Imogen Matthews is a respected consultant, journalist and researcher who commentates on trends in the beauty industry. She regularly contributes to many of the world’s foremost beauty trade titles, has served on the Board of Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW UK) and won the prestigious Cosmetic Executive (UK) Achiever Award. Founded by Imogen in 1993, The Premium Market Report remains the only in-depth report to examine trends in the premium cosmetics, skincare and fragrance industry.